Victor High Purity Regulator [2-Stage] (HPT279B)

[Tyger]

As an extension of my original thread (GWAPA#4188), I am writing for some specific advice.

Well, needless to say, I decided to go ahead with my plans for a CO2 System. So, I thought I would do things the right way and was able to locate a used Victor High Purity Regulator [2-Stage] (HPT279B) which should come prefitted with CGA-320 and Swaglok 1/4" to 1/8" threaded reducer bushing. (Aside: I decided to make it a birthday present to myself... then Stacy, my significant other, who loves my tank almost as much as I do, decided to gift it to me... always nice to have a significant other who loves your past times almost as much as you do).

Anyway, while things seem to be off-to-a-good start, I will need to build out the system a little bit more. In terms of the overall system, I plan to get the following:

• CO2 Tank [10-lbs] though I might scale down to a 5-lbs depending on whether or not it fits height-wise under the opposite cabinet.
• CO2 Tubing

In terms of what I need to build, I plan to use the following specs to build the CO2 Reactor:

• CO2 Reactor though the reactor will be 18" to 20" long for increased dissolution (reference Georgiadawgger Specs); I am wondering what others thoughts might be regarding straight or elbow inline input-output connections; and I am also debating whether or not to add the side nipple for venting. I do plan to use threaded end caps to allow them to be removed to clean out the reactor.
• Bubble Counter: At present, I do not plan to use a separate bubble counter as the CO2 Reactor is designed to act as a bubble counter (see specs and video).

In terms of outfitting the regulator, I know that I will need a needle valve and was thinking:

• CO2 System Needle Valve: I want to get a solid needle valve that allows for steady flow, precise control, and accurate bubble counts down to around 1 bubble/4-6 seconds (6-10 bpm but at least 10 bmp). At present, I was thinking about the Fabco NV-55 which was highly recommended because it is well priced and very accurate. In this regard, I was wondering what others experiences are with the Fabco NV-55, what kind of bubble counts can be expected on the low end, and whether or not folks are running the Fabco NV-55 inline or attached to regulator (having read the warning posted by Rex " Be very careful when attaching to a regulator body as this valve is heavy and it would be easy to break the fitting. In my opinion, for what it's worth, you are much better off running this as an in-line valve."
• Solenoid: at the moment, I plan to run CO2 24-7 at a low bubble count (reference Georgiadawgger) though I have not completely ruled out use of a Solenoid. As such, I was wondering what brand(s) I should consider and/or avoid.
• Other Things: Of course, as this is my first build out, I wonder what else I might be missing in terms of hardware, adapters, and other such I have not accounted for in my plans.

Okay, I found "The Best Aquarium Regulator & CO2 Parts" within the blog called Rex's Planted Tank Guide and others have suggested talking to him about current equipment, what I need to get set-up, and ordering parts from him. Old website posts also recommended Oregon Aqua Design; however, their website is down and OAD is rumored to be out of business. On GWAPA, I have also read the post "Rex Grigg FYI." Consequently, I thought I would ask what members thought about consulting and/or buying parts from Rex (not having a the system built which I want to do myself). If you would not recommend him, then I would ask who you would recommend speaking with about current equipment and what I need to complete the outfit and/or where I might order parts.

In summary, I am looking for comments, advice, thoughts, and guidance such as you'll need.

~Tyger (Michael)~

[jcali10]

Well most people don't appreciate Rex's abbrasive demeanor. He is a curmudgen to say the least. His prices are usually very reasonable, as is his shipping fees, but he can be somewhat unreliable. Whether it is health issues or what I don't know. I had to cancel the last order I placed with him after a long delay and I will not be sending him any more business.

As for a needle valve, I think a Fabco would do fine, especially since you already plan on getting a 2 stage regulator that will maintain the output pressure regardless of whatever hardware you attach to it or how low the input pressure gets. So I think you have the EOTD thing covered. The only drawback, that I have heard about Fabco valves is that they are difficult to use in a small nano tank situation, i.e. controlling the bubble count rate. I use them on my 29G and 50G with no problems. I only have single stage regulators, but I have not experienced an EOTD yet.

I don't really count bubbles, I just set it to where the flow looks pretty good, (from my diffuser) and then watch it for a while to be sure that my fish are okay with the amount of CO2 injected.

[eleontie]

You obviously did your homework just a few thoughts :

- go with either an external CO2 reactor or a diffuser. Having ugly equipment inside the tank is no fun at all.
- if you want to go with top of the line regulator/needle valves, etc try http://www.greenleafaquariums.com
- if you want to go cheap search "aquatek" on ebay. I have one with a 6 way manifold. More than happy with it.
- The bigger the tank the less it matters how accurate is your needle valve. If it is a 20g tank, 1 vs 2 bubles per second is a big differece. In a 55-95, as Joe said, just eyeball it and plants will be happy. Get a drop checker to help you get a sense on how much you should dose

[ricoishere]

Seems like you definintely did your research. I do agree with the GLA regulator/diffuser. I have their inline diffuser in a 48L. It's great for keeping objects out of the tank. Their regulator is pretty solid as well. A bit pricey, but solid. I have their choice regulator with 2 bubble counters. Coupled with their inline diffusers, I'm churning CO2 at 12 BPM on one tank. The only drawback with the inline is that if your spraybar is very close to the top, and you point it upward to get surface agitaion, some CO2 will get lost. I have mine pointing at a slight downward angle. I'm getting their external diffuser next for another tank. As a matter of fact, they're having a sale on their older edition diffusers:
http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/co2-diffusers.html

[sns26]

I've dealt with Rex Griggs and found him gruff but helpful. He is not fast, but he is honest. I bought a Fabco NV-55 and a Clippard solenoid from him and then put them together with a Micromatic regulator. I told Rex what I was doing and he just tossed all the fittings I needed in a box and sent it to me.

[Tyger]

Addendum (Additional Question):

Obviously, CO2 Tanks are typically either aluminium or steel. With regard to our purposes, I was wondering whether there are any significant advantages to either tank beyond aluminium being lighter and possibly one costing less than the other? Open to any thoughts... thanks, in advance, for taking a moment,

~Tyger~

[Jim Miller]

The only two differences I can think of are weight and rust. Weight is up to you. Rust shouldn't be a problem since many places like Roberts only do tank swaps rather than fills and they then hold the responsibility for ensuring hydrotesting.

I bought a 20lb aluminum one for weight reasons. I wanted the 20lb capacity since we don't live close to a filling station that I could find so I wanted to minimize refill trips.

I got my new 20lb tank from aquariumplants.com.

jim