Point me on the right direction, please ! lol

Lighting, filtration etc
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Cristy Keister
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Post by Cristy Keister »

you can get an in-line needle valve. I use the NV-55 in-line.
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ddavila06
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Post by ddavila06 »

Jim Miller wrote:I've lately given up on Excel as a BBA treatment as it wasn't getting the job done through dosing. I think I must have developed an Excel resistant BBA strain. :roll:

So now when I do a water change I directlly and carefully treat BBA areas with a syringe of H2O2. Tedious but it's working. I limit it to 0.5ml/gallon. So far the areas I'm working are wood above the water as I'm doing the change. I hope the submerged wood areas do as well.

Jim
i do the same but with excel. i also doble the dose, so with half the amount of water in my tank (i do 50% water changes) is like doing 4 times the dose for about 5 mins, then i refill and the algea turns red within hours...


Cristy, where do i buy that?

i have a few pics of what the piece that i got is like...crappy indeed lol
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Damian Davila
"Fishes-up, chill, Plants too"
"so many plants, so little space!"
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Cristy Keister
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Post by Cristy Keister »

One of these needle valves: http://store.fabco-air.com/products.php?cat=113
then you need the fittings for the airline or a fitting to attach to your regulator from Clippard. I have the Fabco NV-55 with 10/32 ports and 2x part# 11752-1 from Clippard.

I almost forgot -- I have a never-used Red Sea needle valve stored somewhere in my house. It is also in-line. I could sell it for $30.
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150EH
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Post by 150EH »

Are you sure it's the needle valve? Do you use an inline check valve, it so the CRP (cracking pressure) may be too high. I paid $20 for this little plastic piece to have a CRP of 0.017 but it's great and will not create problems at low bubble per second rates.
Sincerely,
Tim
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ddavila06
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Post by ddavila06 »

well, is just that the handle thing it has is not meant for little amounts of co2 to come out, i could virtually gas it all out by turning that thing all open...
plus i dont know what ya; talking about lol im very noob at these things :mrgreen:
im getting the needle valve from Cristy, that should solve the issue i hope :roll:
Damian Davila
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Jim Miller
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Post by Jim Miller »

Damian

Is the big blue thing an actual regulator? I don't see a low pressure gauge only a bottle pressure, e.g. 800psi, gauge. In order to get small amounts of CO2 from any needle valve you need a much lower pressure than 800psi which is what a regulator does for you. That appears to be just an ASA (air source adapter) with a handle to turn it on and off followed by a crude needle valve.

Not only are these assemblies not very effective they also subject the needle valve to the full pressure of the bottle which they are seldom designed for. I consider them unsafe.

Get a real CO2 regulator and a needle valve. If you really need to use a paintball tank you can get a paintball adapter for about $15 to connect the regulator to the tank.

Jim
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ddavila06
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Post by ddavila06 »

lol, yeah...like i said, im a noob! :| it is a ASA thing and yeah, the valve is crappy and unloads everything at once like you said. unfortunatly i sold (to Cristy) my extra regulator a few months back lol...so im going to try this thing for now and see if it works. :D
Damian Davila
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jweis
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Post by jweis »

Be careful it does not go Kaboom!
Julie
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ddavila06
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Post by ddavila06 »

jweis wrote:Be careful it does not go Kaboom!

:shock:
Damian Davila
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150EH
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Post by 150EH »

Ok, I'll try to explain what CRP or cracking pressure in a Check Valve.

A Check valve is something you put in your CO2 line between the aqaurium and the regulator so water can not come into the CO2 line and ruin your regulator. So it basically keeps the water in the aquarium and the CO2 gas in the paintball bottle without letting them mix.

Check Valves work with varied CRP so for the tiny amounts of pressure we use in the aquarium you need one that opens and lets the gas (CO2) through easily or at a very low pressure. If your Check Valve has a high CRP you would have to open your needle valve a lot to get gas flowing to your reactor, diffuser, etc. then you would always have back the gas volume down to what you need, this can also cause tubing to deform with always high pressure on one side of the check valve before it opens. This is why you also hear people complain that their needle valve will not hold a constant bubble rate.

I'm not even sure if I would understand that but here's a link to a very good check valvehttp://www.aquariumplants.com/THE_BEST_Check_V ... heck12.htm

Wikipedia
A check valve, clack valve, non-return valve or one-way valve is a mechanical device, a valve, which normally allows fluid (liquid or gas) to flow through it in only one direction.

Check valves are two-port valves, meaning they have two openings in the body, one for fluid to enter and the other for fluid to leave. There are various types of check valves used in a wide variety of applications. Check valves are often part of common household items. Although they are available in a wide range of sizes and costs, check valves generally are very small, simple, and/or inexpensive. Check valves work automatically and most are not controlled by a person or any external control; accordingly, most do not have any valve handle or stem. The bodies (external shells) of most check valves are made of plastic or metal.

An important concept in check valves is the cracking pressure which is the minimum upstream pressure at which the valve will operate. Typically the check valve is designed for and can therefore be specified for a specific cracking pressure.

if you want to know more look here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Check_valve
Sincerely,
Tim
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