Pump requirements and model opinions?
- Jim Miller
- Posts: 940
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2010 10:16 pm
- Location: Parkton, MD
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Pump requirements and model opinions?
I'm looking for an undertank flow augmentation pump to add in parallel with my the Eheim 2078. Since the 2078 rated max flow is on the order of 250gpm with media installed (per the eheim manual i read last night...) I think I want something on the order of 400-600gpm.
My tank is nominally 90g, less glass thickness, substrate, etc. I've got 1.5" bulkheads and a spare 1" circuit plumbed in parallel with the Eheim so I'm not expecting any problem delivering the flow.
Quiet running is a must although if necessary I could turn off the flow pump if it annoyed us when the house is otherwise silent and just depend on the 2078 circulation for a bit.
The two I've seen mentioned are the Eheim 1260 and something in the Quiet One models.
My first question is my requirement for flow sensible at something like 8-10x nominal tank size?
Any opinions on either or both or anything thing else that would be quiet and deliver the flow rate?
I don't want to pick something that's overkill and then have to choke it down with a ball valve since that will increase the pump dissipation, increase noise and heat the water unnecessarily as well as spin my BGE meter.
First hand experience appreciated.
Thanks
Jim
My tank is nominally 90g, less glass thickness, substrate, etc. I've got 1.5" bulkheads and a spare 1" circuit plumbed in parallel with the Eheim so I'm not expecting any problem delivering the flow.
Quiet running is a must although if necessary I could turn off the flow pump if it annoyed us when the house is otherwise silent and just depend on the 2078 circulation for a bit.
The two I've seen mentioned are the Eheim 1260 and something in the Quiet One models.
My first question is my requirement for flow sensible at something like 8-10x nominal tank size?
Any opinions on either or both or anything thing else that would be quiet and deliver the flow rate?
I don't want to pick something that's overkill and then have to choke it down with a ball valve since that will increase the pump dissipation, increase noise and heat the water unnecessarily as well as spin my BGE meter.
First hand experience appreciated.
Thanks
Jim
Last edited by Jim Miller on Thu Jan 20, 2011 1:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- chris_todd
- Posts: 1118
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- Location: Catonsville
- Jim Miller
- Posts: 940
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2010 10:16 pm
- Location: Parkton, MD
- Contact:
- Jim Miller
- Posts: 940
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2010 10:16 pm
- Location: Parkton, MD
- Contact:
- Jim Miller
- Posts: 940
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2010 10:16 pm
- Location: Parkton, MD
- Contact:
- Jim Miller
- Posts: 940
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2010 10:16 pm
- Location: Parkton, MD
- Contact:
I've never heard of running an Eheim without the pads. I have heard about folks running them with less biomedia in them.
If I ran without pads I'd have no mechanical filtration at all since I'm not using a prefilter in the tank. I also wonder how this would affect the impeller since it woudn't be protected by at least some filtration.
Wouldn't this lead to a buildup of particulates floating around that would otherwise get filtered out?
The Eheim docs don't indicate what the flow rate would be without the pads. The flow "without media" which is the way it ships (but with pads) is 450gph which would give me a 5x turnover which is getting closer. How much turnover is enough was one of my questions. I often see 8-10x recommended.
I always wonder about the Amano approach to things. The outcome is beautiful but I wonder how much labor behind the scenes is involved. Does he recommend this for the average aquarist?
Thanks!
Jim
If I ran without pads I'd have no mechanical filtration at all since I'm not using a prefilter in the tank. I also wonder how this would affect the impeller since it woudn't be protected by at least some filtration.
Wouldn't this lead to a buildup of particulates floating around that would otherwise get filtered out?
The Eheim docs don't indicate what the flow rate would be without the pads. The flow "without media" which is the way it ships (but with pads) is 450gph which would give me a 5x turnover which is getting closer. How much turnover is enough was one of my questions. I often see 8-10x recommended.
I always wonder about the Amano approach to things. The outcome is beautiful but I wonder how much labor behind the scenes is involved. Does he recommend this for the average aquarist?
Thanks!
Jim
Last edited by Jim Miller on Thu Jan 20, 2011 9:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Well, it's close to what he recommends. He recommends at first to use poret foam on the bottom third of the filter topped by activated carbon for the first month. Then after a month switch out the carbon for biomedia. Then switch out the poret foam and make it all biomedia. This is if you are using Aquasoil which initially releases NH4 that needs to be removed somewhat by the carbon. In your case that shouldn't be necessary assuming the soil is well mineralized.
I've been running my tanks this way and I love how the flow doesn't slow down nearly as much. It would seem the particles in the water are not an issue either. I do also have a 100ml bag of Purigen at the top of my filters to help with the organics that might accumulate in the water column.
I've been running my tanks this way and I love how the flow doesn't slow down nearly as much. It would seem the particles in the water are not an issue either. I do also have a 100ml bag of Purigen at the top of my filters to help with the organics that might accumulate in the water column.
- Jim Miller
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- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2010 10:16 pm
- Location: Parkton, MD
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Well that certainly sounds interesting. I'm plumbing in the extra 1" capacity for a parallel path anyway. It will double as a full tank drain as well by using unions for connections. Maybe I'll go without implementing anything via it for a while and see how it goes. I'm all for less expense and maintenance!!
BTW, what make/model filter are you using?
My MTS went through 5 cycles. My "sun" was a heat lamp running continuously and it never got the mixture hot rather just kept it at a nice warm temp to make for happy bacterial action. It took between 2-3 days usually to get to the point where I felt it was ready for another full wet. I never let it get dusty dry either. I also turned it often with a hand claw. I'm working on the second bag now. I'm planning a month of drystart grow out anyway so I think any remaining NH4 tendancy should be minimal.
Thanks!
Jim
BTW, what make/model filter are you using?
My MTS went through 5 cycles. My "sun" was a heat lamp running continuously and it never got the mixture hot rather just kept it at a nice warm temp to make for happy bacterial action. It took between 2-3 days usually to get to the point where I felt it was ready for another full wet. I never let it get dusty dry either. I also turned it often with a hand claw. I'm working on the second bag now. I'm planning a month of drystart grow out anyway so I think any remaining NH4 tendancy should be minimal.
Thanks!
Jim