My CO2 does turn off at night, the powerhead is on the same timer as the lights. WHen the lights go off, the CO2 only travels through about 3 inches of water before hitting the surface.
By using 2 seperate jugs, that both run into the same line, I am able to keep a constant flow going by changing out one container each week. I have check valves before the "T" that feeds both to the powerhead, I don't lose pressurization for more than an hour or so when I switch out the bottles. I am using a very inexpensive Brettanomyces yeast that is a bit slower growing than bread yeast, and is still working within the 2 week swap-out.
I do appreciate that a commercial system IS the best way to go, but for right now I have to do what I can to make this work. If running on a V6 means that all the plants I have are growing and happy, then I am happy.
A bit frustrated... need a little help.
There's definitely nothing wrong with the approach you're taking. By dialing down the lights, and growing easier/more tolerant plants, you are working within the limitations of DIY CO2 and it sounds like you're doing so very successfully. You don't have to have the best equipment or more demanding plants to have a nice planted aquarium.
The main thing to keep in mind, is that it's fairly likely that if you did want to grow a wider variety of plants, you may need to turn up your lights, which would then necessitate turning up your CO2 and dosing. At that point, you may exceed the threshold for where DIY is a reasonable option.
That said, if you're getting good results with what you've got now, and are getting enjoyment from your tank, then no one can argue that it's the wrong thing to do. There are millions different ways to have success in this hobby, and finding the one that works best for you is worth a lot.
I'm looking forward to seeing some more pictures of your tank now that you've got your algae problems under control!
The main thing to keep in mind, is that it's fairly likely that if you did want to grow a wider variety of plants, you may need to turn up your lights, which would then necessitate turning up your CO2 and dosing. At that point, you may exceed the threshold for where DIY is a reasonable option.
That said, if you're getting good results with what you've got now, and are getting enjoyment from your tank, then no one can argue that it's the wrong thing to do. There are millions different ways to have success in this hobby, and finding the one that works best for you is worth a lot.
I'm looking forward to seeing some more pictures of your tank now that you've got your algae problems under control!
And that is all that matters. It'll work with the lower lighting a lot better - but as Kris said, if you try and crank this "engine" back up... CO2 is the first thing to look at.Dekker001 wrote: If running on a V6 means that all the plants I have are growing and happy, then I am happy.
Keep in mind, you posted a system with 500 watts of light and asked for advice.
High light systems as you originally were running are not tolerant of imbalances.You went from 486 watts of light to what, 200 or 300? NASCAR to a family sedan. Bob's Discount Tires are now working out all right.
Not saying that is a bad thing - it isnt! - as most folks don't want to deal with true high light systems (including me for the most part). Just saying that the system's balance is going to be easier to maintain like this... as long as plant selections don't stray into that demanding field and you keep on the yeast sludge swaps, it should work out.
PS You will find I am an advocate of KISS (and lazy) systems. Some of my bias against yeast systems stems from personal experiences when life gets in the way of a good yeast sludge swapping schedule....
Dave
I have this post on PVAS also, and I don't think I updates my lighting on here.
The 486 watts I had were cooking the upper plants. I removed 6 bulbs and now run at 324w. One thing that I really like is that because of the way the hoods are built, I can put more light on the plants that like it, and keep it lower in other areas. They make these bulbs in 13w,19w,23w and 27w, so you really have a lot of room to configure things. You also have the choice of 4 different color lights.
The 486 watts I had were cooking the upper plants. I removed 6 bulbs and now run at 324w. One thing that I really like is that because of the way the hoods are built, I can put more light on the plants that like it, and keep it lower in other areas. They make these bulbs in 13w,19w,23w and 27w, so you really have a lot of room to configure things. You also have the choice of 4 different color lights.
I can make custom built stands. Most of the work I do in trade.
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marydotson
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Rick Dotson
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Awesome!!
I posted on your PVAS page as well. It is great to see that you are doing so well. Each person has there own way of doing things that works for them. You need to find what works for you and stick with it.
The first thing I recommend to new people is get a timer for the lights. and then I hear that "I turn them on/off everyday at the same time." It doesn't take too many days until they forget or are late and then the problems start. Same with CO2 as long as you keep the rig gong no problems but forget or whatever and bam! Auto dosing systems are another good idea on big tanks.
Not saying to get rid of the yeast cause I am sure that it is making a big difference but wanted to discuss the use of plants that can use other carbon sources.
No need we all learned by well reasoned discussion and you have really generated a lot of interest with your project. I bet that a lot of people who are afraid to ask questions have learnd a lot by reading your posts. My hat is off to you for your efforts. Also there are no experts here except for maybe are guru Ghazanfar. We are people who love our hobby and really enjoy discussing with others ways to make it better. There was someone here for us when we were new.
DIY isn't an instant fail as you have already proved. But in the long run consistency is the most important point in keeping algae under control. The more things you can do exactly the same the better.Dekker001 wrote:I guess I just don't get this part. TBH I can't afford to swap to pressurized CO2 right now, but I don't understand why the DIY is considered an instant fail.
The first thing I recommend to new people is get a timer for the lights. and then I hear that "I turn them on/off everyday at the same time." It doesn't take too many days until they forget or are late and then the problems start. Same with CO2 as long as you keep the rig gong no problems but forget or whatever and bam! Auto dosing systems are another good idea on big tanks.
No differenceDekker001 wrote:Is the CO2 in a can different than that put off by yeast?
With those plants you would probably not even need yeast if you did 50 to 100% water changes a week. The plants will breakdown the bicarbonates to carbonates. The pH will go up and water changes will replace the carbon source. It requires a lot of energy for the plants to make this chemical change to the water so the lights are important, maybe even more light than would normally be used in a tank with these plants that did not get big water changes.Dekker001 wrote:300ppm of hardness with Vals, Anacharis and Java fern?
Not saying to get rid of the yeast cause I am sure that it is making a big difference but wanted to discuss the use of plants that can use other carbon sources.
Dekker001 wrote:I will apologize now if I seem argumentative.
No need we all learned by well reasoned discussion and you have really generated a lot of interest with your project. I bet that a lot of people who are afraid to ask questions have learnd a lot by reading your posts. My hat is off to you for your efforts. Also there are no experts here except for maybe are guru Ghazanfar. We are people who love our hobby and really enjoy discussing with others ways to make it better. There was someone here for us when we were new.
You are the Man!!!Dekker001 wrote:Algae is completely gone.
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Rick Dotson
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PS: Warning!!
Dekker you mentioned "my CO2 turns off at night" just be aware that they pressure in the CO2 reactor can build up pressure and if valved off can explode leaving a big mess on the wall, floor and ceiling.
This has not happened to me as evidence of the fact that I am still in the hobby. I can only imagine the reaction of the wife/husband/mother of hobbyist who have seen this type of mess!
Dekker you mentioned "my CO2 turns off at night" just be aware that they pressure in the CO2 reactor can build up pressure and if valved off can explode leaving a big mess on the wall, floor and ceiling.
This has not happened to me as evidence of the fact that I am still in the hobby. I can only imagine the reaction of the wife/husband/mother of hobbyist who have seen this type of mess!
Rick Dotson wrote:PS: Warning!!
Dekker you mentioned "my CO2 turns off at night" just be aware that they pressure in the CO2 reactor can build up pressure and if valved off can explode leaving a big mess on the wall, floor and ceiling.
This has not happened to me as evidence of the fact that I am still in the hobby. I can only imagine the reaction of the wife/husband/mother of hobbyist who have seen this type of mess!
There is no shut off valve, when the powerhead is off the co2 just bubbles off.the powerhead is on the same timer as the lights. When the lights go off, the CO2 only travels through about 3 inches of water before hitting the surface.
I can make custom built stands. Most of the work I do in trade.
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Rick Dotson
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