My plants in my 125 are really taking off, and I am wondering if that means I should increase my ferts.
Currently I am using:
12ml Flourish Iron daily and
12ml Flourish every other day on top of the iron.
Some of the plants are starting to get a bit pale, which is a sign of low iron right?
The Val is growing like crazy, as is the anacharis. Everything else is showing growth too.
I guess my real question is : In a VERY (mine is not there yet) heavily planted tank, what would be the upper limits of iron you would use daily?
I know I should have an iron kit, (getting one for my B-day), but in the meantime I want to toxify my tank.
How much Iron?
How much Iron?
I can make custom built stands. Most of the work I do in trade.
The biggest sign is the plants themselves. If the plants look pale, try gradually increasing your dosage. If it's any sign, I dose roughly what you do in my 75G daily, sometimes more, so I don't think you're close to a limit in a 125 with extremely fast growers like Val and Anacharis.
Try upping the amount to 17ml daily of iron for a week, and see if you notice any difference. You may want to start dosing Flourish every day too.
Try upping the amount to 17ml daily of iron for a week, and see if you notice any difference. You may want to start dosing Flourish every day too.
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DonkeyFish
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...On the subject of Eco-Complete ...
I was thinking about using it in a tank that I am not going to put plants in ATM. I can get it for almost the same price as stupid ole black gravel at PS. Would having the eco-complete in a tank with no plants cause more problems with algae? I plan on having only about 75w of light over a 110g tank.
I was thinking about using it in a tank that I am not going to put plants in ATM. I can get it for almost the same price as stupid ole black gravel at PS. Would having the eco-complete in a tank with no plants cause more problems with algae? I plan on having only about 75w of light over a 110g tank.
I can make custom built stands. Most of the work I do in trade.
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DonkeyFish
- Posts: 1783
- Joined: Fri Apr 27, 2007 4:42 pm
- Real Name: Jen Williams
- Location: Alexandria, VA
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Except plain gravel doesn't hold nutrients, right? inert vs. not inert? Or am I misreading again?
Back on track...If you plan on trying to put plants in the tank at some point you should use a substrate that will support your plan. Better than having to tear it up or have to fight an uphill battle with the deck stacked against you later!
There are plant substrates other than EcoComplete, by the way.
But if you can get that good a price on it, and you like it in your other tank, get it.
On to the original question... and I was hoping one of the fert gurus would pipe up, but since they haven't yet I'll just say that a well-rounded fertilizing schedule includes BOTH what are called "macro" (your Nitrogen, Potassium and Phosphates, Calcium and some others) as well as "micro" (your lesser nutrients like Magnesium, Iron, Boron, blah blah blah) components. Flourish is the second of those, it is a "micro" fertilizer.
Now what? Oh boy. Are you in for some brain hurt!
You essentially have two choices. Pre-mixed liquid fertilizers or dry dosing. Each has advantages and disadvantages, and everyone has their own preferences. As a starting point, I'd suggest trying the liquids, since they are the easiest to get into. Then once you get the hang of it you can branch out and try the dry ferts.
I, personally, have very little experience with the general comprehensive liquid ferts so I won't comment on them. A lot of people use the Seachem products, which you have already partially discovered. They are flexible in that you dose the N, P and K separately and can adjust amounts as needed, instead of being stuck with whatever the pre-mixed ratio is. Downside is you have to buy three different products, Nitrogen, Potassium and Phosphorous.
So that's a nice abbreviated look at fertilizing. Now you'll have plenty of questions, so let 'em fly!
Back on track...If you plan on trying to put plants in the tank at some point you should use a substrate that will support your plan. Better than having to tear it up or have to fight an uphill battle with the deck stacked against you later!
There are plant substrates other than EcoComplete, by the way.
But if you can get that good a price on it, and you like it in your other tank, get it. On to the original question... and I was hoping one of the fert gurus would pipe up, but since they haven't yet I'll just say that a well-rounded fertilizing schedule includes BOTH what are called "macro" (your Nitrogen, Potassium and Phosphates, Calcium and some others) as well as "micro" (your lesser nutrients like Magnesium, Iron, Boron, blah blah blah) components. Flourish is the second of those, it is a "micro" fertilizer.
Now what? Oh boy. Are you in for some brain hurt!
You essentially have two choices. Pre-mixed liquid fertilizers or dry dosing. Each has advantages and disadvantages, and everyone has their own preferences. As a starting point, I'd suggest trying the liquids, since they are the easiest to get into. Then once you get the hang of it you can branch out and try the dry ferts.
I, personally, have very little experience with the general comprehensive liquid ferts so I won't comment on them. A lot of people use the Seachem products, which you have already partially discovered. They are flexible in that you dose the N, P and K separately and can adjust amounts as needed, instead of being stuck with whatever the pre-mixed ratio is. Downside is you have to buy three different products, Nitrogen, Potassium and Phosphorous.
So that's a nice abbreviated look at fertilizing. Now you'll have plenty of questions, so let 'em fly!
It is not murder if you're killing snails.
Thanks for all that. I do like the look of the Eco-complete, and since I can get it for the same price as regular gravel, I figure it makes sense in case a tanks theme is changed.
I think I will go with the Seachem NPK for now, since their products have done pretty well so far.
Now the questions.. ( you said I would have some )
What levels of NPK are optimal?
How do you test them?
If no tests are available, what are the symptoms to look for showing a deficiency of each?
I think I will go with the Seachem NPK for now, since their products have done pretty well so far.
Now the questions.. ( you said I would have some )
What levels of NPK are optimal?
How do you test them?
If no tests are available, what are the symptoms to look for showing a deficiency of each?
I can make custom built stands. Most of the work I do in trade.
If you're using Seachem's full product line, I would recommend following their dosing chart, which can be found here:
http://www.seachem.com/support/PlantDoseChart.pdf
Of course, you may find that you need to increase/decrease your doses, but it's a great place to start. There's not really an easy way to test trace or iron levels accurately without locating professional grade test kits. You can usually get a reasonable estimate for Nitrate and Phosphate levels using hobbyist test kits from Aquarium Pharmaceuticals. These are available in most aquarium stores. The optimal levels for N and P are 5-10ppm for N, and 1-2ppm for P.
That said, most of us don't test our tanks every week. We find a regimen that works, and look for symptoms in our plants and in algae growth to adjust. Then, we usually do a weekly water change.
Doing a quick google search, this looks like a pretty good guide for plant deficiencies:
http://badmanstropicalfish.com/plant_problems.html
Finally, you may find that Seachem's full line of products becomes cost prohibitive. In that case, most of us order large 2L or 4L bottles of Seachem's Iron and Flourish products, but use dry fertilizers for N and P. Green Leaf Aquariums is a great place to order those from:
http://greenleafaquariums.com/aquarium-fertilizer.html
All you would need is a pound each of KNO3 and KH2PO4. (You don't need to dose potassium separately with dry ferts because there's sufficient K in the nitrate and phosphate compounds used.)
http://www.seachem.com/support/PlantDoseChart.pdf
Of course, you may find that you need to increase/decrease your doses, but it's a great place to start. There's not really an easy way to test trace or iron levels accurately without locating professional grade test kits. You can usually get a reasonable estimate for Nitrate and Phosphate levels using hobbyist test kits from Aquarium Pharmaceuticals. These are available in most aquarium stores. The optimal levels for N and P are 5-10ppm for N, and 1-2ppm for P.
That said, most of us don't test our tanks every week. We find a regimen that works, and look for symptoms in our plants and in algae growth to adjust. Then, we usually do a weekly water change.
Doing a quick google search, this looks like a pretty good guide for plant deficiencies:
http://badmanstropicalfish.com/plant_problems.html
Finally, you may find that Seachem's full line of products becomes cost prohibitive. In that case, most of us order large 2L or 4L bottles of Seachem's Iron and Flourish products, but use dry fertilizers for N and P. Green Leaf Aquariums is a great place to order those from:
http://greenleafaquariums.com/aquarium-fertilizer.html
All you would need is a pound each of KNO3 and KH2PO4. (You don't need to dose potassium separately with dry ferts because there's sufficient K in the nitrate and phosphate compounds used.)
