Co2 Reactor
after dealing with the umteenth airlock in my ecco, I changed the diffuser to the return tube from the filter, and i don't see any bubbles at all when the water leaves the spraybar.
when I did have it the original way, I noticed an occasional "burp" of bubbles from the prefilter. i found that too much of the porous media in the cannister was reducing the flow rate of the filter. i changed to sponge and it went away.
when I did have it the original way, I noticed an occasional "burp" of bubbles from the prefilter. i found that too much of the porous media in the cannister was reducing the flow rate of the filter. i changed to sponge and it went away.
I bet that the input and the output of the Ecco is at the top of the canister. If this is an eheim ecco i know that to be true. The airlocks on those are a huge pita. I hate restarting it, usually i attach the input and put the thing in a bucket and let the water flow to remove the air. It also doesn't clear the water as well as the other Eheim series. I think it has to do with the location of the input/output. Debris can go in and out without going through the Ecco media, where in a 2213 it the input is at the bottom of the canister.
I had success dissolving CO2 with an ecco using a S-shaped PVC contraption on the output. Same setup as GG's. I see that you resolved this already, but I thought I'd muse on the causes because I haven't posted in forever.
I had success dissolving CO2 with an ecco using a S-shaped PVC contraption on the output. Same setup as GG's. I see that you resolved this already, but I thought I'd muse on the causes because I haven't posted in forever.
http://www.hoftiezer.net/personal/aquaria/index.htm
Essentially that, you can eliminate the cleaning element of it, if it's post filter there will be literally nothing in there for years. Also no need for bioballs if you put the output on the bottom.
You'll have pvc left over if you goto lowe's, but the elbows T's and bushings shouldn't cost more then 10-15.
Essentially that, you can eliminate the cleaning element of it, if it's post filter there will be literally nothing in there for years. Also no need for bioballs if you put the output on the bottom.
You'll have pvc left over if you goto lowe's, but the elbows T's and bushings shouldn't cost more then 10-15.
yeah, i wondered about that part of the Ecco's design. (eheim). I have a couple of these b/c I think eheim is a good company. the filters get the job done (at least good enough for the price), but I will eventually get the pro series for my "show tank". if i had known about the various clubs, I probably wouldn't have been suckered into buying a tetratec 500 as my filter for the 75. if anyone has one of these and can tell me how to avoid the suction cup noise as it drains, i would appreciate it.
[QUOTE=hOAGART] ive tested the ph and kh again today .. ph looks like it has dropped some to 6.9 or 6.8 and the kh appears to be 1 or 2 degrees, depending on intrepretation of the test kit. [/QUOTE]
Does anyone else have any expertise on this? It seems to me that 1-2 deg. KH is awfully low. Doesn't the PH become red fairly unstable once the KH drops below 2 degrees? I'm asking more for knowledge benefit then to send an alarm to hOAGART! (Any of the tests kits commonly found our LFS' are said to have a high degree of error)
Does anyone else have any expertise on this? It seems to me that 1-2 deg. KH is awfully low. Doesn't the PH become red fairly unstable once the KH drops below 2 degrees? I'm asking more for knowledge benefit then to send an alarm to hOAGART! (Any of the tests kits commonly found our LFS' are said to have a high degree of error)
