Blue-green algae strategy

Nutrients, fertilization, substrates etc
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tomterp80
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Joined: Sat Mar 06, 2004 9:03 pm
Location: Oakton, Virginia

Blue-green algae strategy

Post by tomterp80 »

Ok, I give up, I think I'm ready to dose my 75g with chemicals to rid myself of the blue-green algae scourge. Reading Ghazanfar's post titled "Algae", it is sugggested that erythromycin phosphate is effective against it.

As an aside, I took a Nitrate reading, and it is <5 ppm, so it's not like I have an out of control nutrient issue. The pH is 7.2, even though I'm dosing CO2 my setup is really inefficient, hence the fairly high reading.

My question is, are there any warnings regarding the use of Maracyn or other erythromycin products that I should be aware of? I have a few shrimp, but no loaches, among the typically sensitive types. Appreciate any insights,
T. Moran
ingg
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Post by ingg »

If it weren't for the shrimp, hydrogen peroxide does wonders.

Not sure how they react to it.
Dave
tomterp80
Posts: 110
Joined: Sat Mar 06, 2004 9:03 pm
Location: Oakton, Virginia

Post by tomterp80 »

ingg wrote:If it weren't for the shrimp, hydrogen peroxide does wonders.
:shock:

Never would have guessed that one. How much do you use, and is it a one-time thing?

Of course we are talking a planted tank here, nothing that can't be replaced but I'm not particularly looking to replace everything, either.
T. Moran
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fredyk
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Post by fredyk »

one easy way is to cover the tank completely, no light getting in, for three days.
Mark Harnet
ingg
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Post by ingg »

https://district.bluegrass.kctcs.edu/kh ... 02/bga.htm

http://www.gpodio.com/h2o2.asp

http://www.malawicichlidhomepage.com/aq ... oxide.html

there are a few links for you on it.

I've done it with fish in the tanks, and they didn't even seem to notice. I *think* I've read that shrimp are much mroe sensitive to it, not positive on that though.

Plants that you know wouldn't survive a 1:20 bleach dip might struggle with this, too. Please take note : if you aren't fixing the issue causing the algae, it will most likely return. For me, it was improper flow.
Dave
tomterp80
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Joined: Sat Mar 06, 2004 9:03 pm
Location: Oakton, Virginia

Post by tomterp80 »

ingg wrote:https://district.bluegrass.kctcs.edu/kh ... 02/bga.htm
Please take note : if you aren't fixing the issue causing the algae, it will most likely return. For me, it was improper flow.
I think flow was a problem at one time. The algae took hold before I upgraded the flow substantially. Once established, no amount of water changes and siphoning has had much effect. The only significant problem I currently have is a relative lack of fast growing stem plants. I am overloaded towards crypts, anubias and tiger lotus, and am erratic in my dosing.

Thanks for the links, I'm determined to fix this issue.
T. Moran
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Cristy Keister
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Post by Cristy Keister »

Manually remove as much as you can, do a large water change, then dose nitrogen. This has worked for me a couple of times in tanks that had almost no livestock to maintain a good amount of nitrogen. Takes about a week to get rid of it entirely.
tomterp80
Posts: 110
Joined: Sat Mar 06, 2004 9:03 pm
Location: Oakton, Virginia

Post by tomterp80 »

Cristy Keister wrote:Manually remove as much as you can, do a large water change, then dose nitrogen. This has worked for me a couple of times in tanks that had almost no livestock to maintain a good amount of nitrogen. Takes about a week to get rid of it entirely.
I see references that cyanobacteria can "fix" nitrogen. Can anyone comment for the benefit of an accountant, what "fix" means in this context? Somehow I don't think it's the same thing as "fixing the books. " :wink:
T. Moran
tomterp80
Posts: 110
Joined: Sat Mar 06, 2004 9:03 pm
Location: Oakton, Virginia

Post by tomterp80 »

Just in case anyone is aspiring to become an authority in cyanobacteria, here's more than you'd ever want to know.

http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/cya ... ria.html#0
T. Moran
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