CO2 recommendations

[Becca]

I've been battling a nice, green, long-stranded algae in my 33 for months.

Water parameter tests come out fine, I use Flourish Excel daily, I've even tried keeping lights out for days at a time while dosing with Excel. Sometimes this makes a dent, but it doesn't hold.

I've had multiple people tell me that CO2 injection will get rid of this kind of algae, but I've remained defiantly low-tech. Unfortunately, I'm finding myself compulsively removing algae from the moss wall in my aquarium multiple times a day and it's starting to eat up a lot of time and drive me insane.

I'm considering CO2 for the first time EVER and would like to know what everyone recommends for a reasonably priced, easy to use, basic system for a 33-long. I've already ruled out any DIYs with the potential to turn messy should a toddler or dog find a way to spill them.

Thanks in advance.

[krisw]

CO2 definitely helps your plants grow better which tends to solve a lot of the related algae problems. It's not a 100% sure thing, however, if you have other issues. That said, I recommend it for any aquarium. You'll have to help define reasonably priced. You can get a full regulator/bubble counter/needle valve + tank for about $150, but it likely will end-of-tank-dump. Of course, you can also spend $400-600 and guarantee no EOTD's, but that's more expensive, but you protect your fish. You can likely purchase the cheap-o option and add another $50-$100 to replace a few of the components to better protect against EOTD. Obviously, if you can find a used setup that's likely going to be your cheapest route.

But on the algae specifically, have you measured your nitrates/phosphates? What is the flow in the parts of the tank that get the algae? What kind of substrate? What kind of light, and how long is it on? Do you currently dose/fertilize anything? Do you have any hardscape items that could be leaching iron/minerals/organics/etc? What size tank, type of filter, maintenance schedule? What plants are currently in the tank?

[Becca]

33 long, driftwood, mix of flourite gravel and aqua soil, up and running about 2 years, a wide assortment of plants (ludwidgia, Staurogyne bihar, Lylodella, star grass-type-stuff, dwarf hair grass, some sort of tricotlye something or other, java fern, anubias, bucephalandra, that other low-light fern thing, some sort of crinium, swords, rotala, etc.), mixed moss wall (riccia, subwassertang, taiwan moss, queen moss, etc., etc.), with mostly small cyprinids and lots of shrimp as inhabitants. It has two AC 30 filters, has never tested high for nitrates or phosphates (admittedly I don't check these often, but I did check them when the algae problem really got going).

I use the flourish plant tabs maybe ever 6 months... maybe... I have issues remembering. Other than those and Excel, I don't use fertilizers.

It runs on two AC 30 filters, one on each side.

Current Satellite + on 8-12 hours a day (for example, I cut it back to 8 for several months and the algae did great, but the plant growth was meh) but not turned up to full brightness.

I use tap for water changes and try to do 30-40% every two weeks. I've tried doing water changes weekly, but this didn't seem to make a dent.


As for reasonably priced... I'm probably looking to spend $150 or less. Even that might be tough to sneak by the husband. Also, what is "End of Tank Dump."

I'm starting to think I should just learn to love the algae.

[Becca]

Oh yeah, it's mostly on the moss wall. It seems to like filter flow, but grows over pretty much the entire wall... I had some Bolbitis that it was all over (that's the other low light fern thing) and I pulled that from the tank and let my headstanders clean it off.

[krisw]

Thanks for the info, Becca!

12 hours is a long time to run a light in a planted aquarium. Most of my tanks work best at around 8 hours (noon - 8pm so I can view at night). If the plants didn't do as well, try ramping up the lamp if it was set to a lower light output.

If the algae is mostly focused around your moss wall, have you tried spot dosing with H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) several times weekly to try to inhibit it's growth? If it's spyrogyra, it often likes good conditions so you have to be a bit more aggressive.

For CO2, end-of-tank-dump is when the tank is nearly empty and all of the liquid CO2 decompresses into gas all at once and this pressure change results in a large amount of the remaining contents of the CO2 dumping into the aquarium. This causes a sudden drop in pH and essentially can suffocate the fish. A good regulator/needle valve can regulate this change of pressure and ensure nothing more than what you've dialed in goes into the tank.

[Becca]

If the algae is mostly focused around your moss wall, have you tried spot dosing with H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) several times weekly to try to inhibit it's growth? If it's spyrogyra, it often likes good conditions so you have to be a bit more aggressive.

Looking at pictures on the web, yeah, it looks like spirogyra. I have not tried spot dosing H2O2 because I was worried it might also harm the moss and, possibly (though I think the dose needs to be much higher) the fish and inverts. It's certainly something I keep around the house, so I can give that a shot.

[krisw]

Just try a small area first, turn off all flow in tank (filters, powerheads, etc.) It may bleach the moss, but moss always comes back. You can combine these treatments with some blackout days, leaving the lights out completely. Some people claim success having a siesta too, running the lights for 4 hours in the morning, off during midday, and back on for 4 hours at night.

[Becca]

Just try a small area first, turn off all flow in tank (filters, powerheads, etc.) It may bleach the moss, but moss always comes back. You can combine these treatments with some blackout days, leaving the lights out completely. Some people claim success having a siesta too, running the lights for 4 hours in the morning, off during midday, and back on for 4 hours at night.

Yeah, I've been doing the "siesta" for about 4 months with no results, so hydrogen peroxide might be my best bet.

[krisw]

Spyrogyra can be a real pain! You can also combine treatments of Excel and H2O2. Again, don't overdo it though. If you have something to stimulate slime coats on your fish, it's not going to hurt adding at the same time, but isn't necessary if you do in small doses.

[Becca]

Spyrogyra can be a real pain! You can also combine treatments of Excel and H2O2. Again, don't overdo it though. If you have something to stimulate slime coats on your fish, it's not going to hurt adding at the same time, but isn't necessary if you do in small doses.

Thanks, I do have some of the Kordon Fish Protector stuff that I can use.

I might just have to learn to love this algae, eh?