For information purposes, I just wanted to let everyone know that you can get a 5 lb steel cylinder hydrotested at F&M Fire Equipment in Hyattsville. It's reasonably convenient for those inside the beltway, and I just used them.
They hydrotest for $20 and fill 5 lb tanks for $18. The fills can be done while you wait, but hydrotesting requires that you leave the tank with them for a couple of days. They also sell reconditioned 5 lb tanks for $75 with the first fill free, and will throw a basic regulator body in for another $40.
--sam