One week old tank...hair algae!

[ericbullock]

I wasn't expecting to see hair algae quite so soon after I planted my tank this past weekend (April 2nd). I planted several bunches of Glossostigma and Stargrass (6 of each) in my 32 gallon tank and after waiting a few days added a small school of rummy nose tetras. A few days later I started noticing the beginnings of hair algae.

As soon as I was able I went and picked up half a dozen Oto cats and while I was at it a dozen Cardinal tetras (couldn't resist). Next day, the algae really started to be noticable so I added a little "siesta" time in my lighting, giving it a two hour break around mid-day.

Two days later the algae is obviously got the beginnings of a strong foothold and is quite distressing for this new freshwater aquarist (I come from a saltwater micro-reef keeping past). I've done some water testing using the tests that I have available and this is what I've got:

PH - hovers around 7.4 (Ph meter/CO2 system)
Alkalinity - 2.5 meq/L
Nitrites - 2.5mg/L
Nitrates - negligable
Phosphates - 0.5 mg/L
Temp - @ 24˚C

Lighting - 150W metal halide (5000˚K)
Photo period - 10 hours total, 2 hour "siesta" around mid-day

I am astounded at how quickly this stuff grows...and a little frightened! Is there anything I can do to nip this in the bud? Is my lighting too strong? Is my CO2 injection not agressive enough? I've been running it around a bubble per second and my Ph doesn't seem to drop below 7.3 during the day.

Thanks folks...there is a lot to learn, but also a lot to get excited about.

[dmartin72]

Here are my suggestions:

1. I would not have a 2 hour "siesta". It is better to have an overall shorter photo-period than a "no light" period in the middle.

2. I would not have put in the fish so soon.

3. I would use faster growing stem plants initially.

4. Increase you CO2 especially for 150 watt halides.

[Aaron]

Ummm...part of your problem is WAY too much lighting on a 32 gallon tank. You really are from the reefing side aren't you?..hehe

You're getting about 5 wpg with that light and that's just insane on a tank that size. A 70 watt MH bulb is plenty. Also you do not want nitrates to be negligable. You want them to hover around 5-20 ppm for optimum growth.

What are your KH and GH readings? Your pH is a little on the high side. With a planted tank and tetras you want to have weak acid water somewhere in the 6.0-6.8 range or so.

[ericbullock]

Also you do not want nitrates to be negligable. You want them to hover around 5-20 ppm for optimum growth.

Since the tank is relatively new there just aren't any appreciable levels present yet...right? Would I want to add any? If so, how?

What are your KH and GH readings? Your pH is a little on the high side. With a planted tank and tetras you want to have weak acid water somewhere in the 6.0-6.8 range or so.

I was shooting for a Ph around 6.8 but it seems to hover right around 7.3 or so. I was dosing CO2 at a rate of one bubble per second. How much CO2 would be considered aggressive? I'm injecting it right into the cannister filter and am wondering if it is all getting disolved. Right now I'm running it at around 3 drops per second and the Ph is down to around 7. My alkalinity is 2.5 meq/L according to the Seachem alkalinity test.

Thanks for the advice...

-eric-

[ericbullock]

Here are my suggestions:
1. I would not have a 2 hour "siesta". It is better to have an overall shorter photo-period than a "no light" period in the middle.
2. I would not have put in the fish so soon.
3. I would use faster growing stem plants initially.
4. Increase you CO2 especially for 150 watt halides.

Thanks for the suggestions. Its too late to remove the fish, but live & learn I guess. How long should I have waited?

I will shorten the photo period as you suggest, and have already increased the CO2.

Thanks,
-eric-

[Aaron]

Eric,

I would need to know your KH levels in order to tell you how much CO2 to add. Use a CO2 chart to see where you want your pH in relation to your KH to obtain about 30ppm CO2.

You can add nitrogen either by mixing dry chemicals such as KNO3 (potassium nitrate) or you can use the nitrogen supplements by SeaChem or Kent.

I REALLY suggest you lower your light levels. They are just way way too high for a beginner and even most experienced hobbiests.

[ericbullock]

I would need to know your KH levels in order to tell you how much CO2 to add. Use a CO2 chart to see where you want your pH in relation to your KH to obtain about 30ppm CO2.

KH is around 6˚.

I REALLY suggest you lower your light levels. They are just way way too high for a beginner and even most experienced hobbiests.

Today I have both shortened the photo period and raised the halide as high as I can (@ 9 inches above the water surface). Thanks for your input...I appreciate it.

-eric-

[SCMurphy]

Good advice so far, I'd like to add a few more points.

I'm surprised your fish are alive with that nitrite level, did you mix up the results with the nitrate test? Did you test for ammonia(um)?

Since you can't lessen the light, keep the photo period short, 8 hours max. You might even find that 5 hours would be best with that intensity.

Are you thinking of adding any more plants species? If you are add them now. Otherwise pick up a few more bunches of your current species and get them into the tank.

[ericbullock]

I'm surprised your fish are alive with that nitrite level, did you mix up the results with the nitrate test? Did you test for ammonia(um)?

No, I have not tested for ammonia. As far as nitirites go it did not seem high to me on the Seachem scale (2.5 mg/L). And no, I did not mix up the 'trite/'trate tests. I'm assuming since this is such a new tank that nitrate levels haven't yet had a chance to rise.

Thanks for the advice...I now have some good information to go by.

-eric-

[Aaron]

Seeing as you used to be into reefing do you still have an RO unit? If you do soften your water to about a KH of 3-4. Obviously do it slowly with small water changes so as not to pH shock the fish.

The tetras show their best colors with pH in the 6's. Rummynose are good indicators that it is good or too high. If there noses are indeed rummy then they are happy and the water is acidic.