suggestions for a 20g long Pearl Gourami tank

[chris_todd]

So I just got a 20g long tank, and a really nice piece of driftwood that fits perfectly, and is almost as long as the tank. I love Pearl Gouramis, and thought this might make a nice biotope tank, and wanted some sugestions for plants (nothing fancy or high maintenance, I'm a newbie after all).

While browsing the aquaticplantcentral plant finder for plants from Thailand/Malaysia/Borneo/Java/Sumatra (or at least SE Asia) that would look nice and be easy to care for, I've come on Java moss, Java fern, and Blyxa japonica. Another I saw was Cryptocoryne cordata var. blassii - a nice focal point in a 20 long? Or perhaps C. pontederiifolia ? I was intrigued by the description of Hygrophila difformis - "a textbook species for the planted aquarium novice" But would it get too large for a 20 long?

Any other suggestions? I'm not going to be super picky about the biotope thing, but it would be nice to have plants from slow shallow streams or pools from SE Asia. For algae control, I was thinking perhaps cherry shrimp?

I was planning on using Fluorite, medium to low light (I'm cheap), an HOB filter, and no CO2. Though as a newbie, I'm open to suggestions if this equipment/substrate combo is stupid. Actually, suggestions for a lighting fixture would be helpful.

And what are the odds any of these plants will be available at the next meeting?

Chris

[DonkeyFish]

Ok, I know it's not some super sexy "Type 2" or anything, but I've always liked H. difformis. Total bonus that it's so darned easy to grow and takes abuse incredibly well. I'll put in my pair of pennies here FWIW and say it won't get too large, just keep it trimmed like anything else. Sounds like a good environment for it to not go too crazy on you too. Add CO2 and it will be weed-like.

And another opinion.... go with EcoComplete over Flourite. I've used both and swear by the EcoComplete. Never had an algae outbreak problem or the super dramatic pH swings when setting up a new tank. If I were made of money I would probably like ADA stuff more, but not all of us are rich EC isn't dirt cheap (like the pun there?? huh huh??), but it's right in line with Flourite price wise from what I found. Totally worth it. NOTE: the look is different than Flourite and the others as it's designed with different sized medium to aid in it's fanciness. Personally, I like the more natural look as opposed to the uniform size of other substrates. Of course I do have SMS in my "big" tanks....but that decision was based on $$ considerations and a bit of peer pressure!

And that's all I have to say about that. Take it or leave it!

[magsdez]

I've used the eco-complete and florite with algae blooms with both. Dealing with one in my 12 gal right now that came from switching from florite to EC. My fiance and I have a bio-type 75gal that's Thailand/SE Asia and for algae control, we are using Siamese Algae Eaters. They are great, but get big. We've also gone a little out of the area and put in some ottos to help. Love the SAE's though. Gotta be very careful if you get them as most places market flying foxs and chinese algae eaters as SAE's. Do lots of reading.
As for plants, we have java fern, a couple crypts, jungle vals, balasnara, a couple of types of hygrophilla, marmos balls (awsome looking), onion plants, and something else that slips my mind. I would not get the blyxa japonica. I got a couple at auction a bit ago before doing my research and they are actually a higher maint plant. Requiring mid to high light, low ph, sandy soil, and CO2. They aren't doing so well in my 12 gal (yeast co2, high light, EC substrate, 7.6ish ph). Hmm, I think I'll move them to the 75gal now that I think about it. Thanks for the idea!
Well, that's my 2cents. Hope it helps!

[PadreJP]

I've used both Eco-complete and Flourite Black Sand. I like each one, in different ways. Eco seems to give your system pH a little jolt upwards, at least initially; there seems to be some debate about whether this is temporary or permanent, and to be honest I've never bothered to really pay attention to it. All of the flourite substrates are pH inert. I can also say that, two months or so since I've set up my new tanks with flourite, I've had no issues with diatoms (brown "algae") unlike my Eco tank where I had tons of diatom issues--however that was also in a different city (Providence, RI) so that could be a water thing as much as a substrate thing.

Most of the plants you mentioned sound good to me, except the blyxa. I recently tried some blyxa in two of my 10 gallon tanks with the flourite sand and 30W of light, and it just didn't take at all and died pretty quickly. Part of the problem could be my pH; everything I read about blyxa online says it is really an acidic water plant, and my tanks are at pH 7.8.

As a huge shrimp fanatic, I can tell you that it is usually unwise to depend upon RCS for algae control in a tank. You would need an incredible number of them (for a 20L, probably 200+) to really see a significant dent. If you started with 20 or so RCS you could easily breed yourself up to 200+ shrimp in a fairly short period of time...IF they were in a tank by themselves, with no fish. But in a tank with fish, the fish are going to get most of the shrimplets. RCS aren't a great choice for algae control because while they do eat algae, it is not the primary part of their diet--rather, the invisible (clear) biofilm that grows on every surface of the tank and is made up of a combination of algae, bacteria, protozoa, fungi...that's their primary diet (and the primary diet of most of the dwarf shrimp species in the hobby). If you want a shrimp for algae control, probably the best is the amano shrimp...which, unfortunately, you cannot breed in freshwater so you are only going to have as many as you buy, and at around $3 a shrimp (Scales usually has them in stock), that will start getting expensive.

Good luck with everything. And keep us posted on what you decide!

[Judi]

For lighting, how about a twin tube fluorescent fixture? Not too expensive, and should be adequate lighting for a 20 gallon long, without being too overwhelming or requiring co2 (although perhaps you might want to use Excel for a carbon source).

[chris_todd]

Thanks for the tips, I'll nix the blyxa.

I saw Ecocomplete at Scales and wondered about it. I'll give the substrate some more thought, though it sounds like I can do fine with either.

As for the lighting, per Judi's suggestion, would something like this work well:
http://www.hellolights.com/index.asp?Pa ... rodID=1319
It's 2x18W T5 NO, but I wonder about the bulbs - an actinic and a 10000K - from what I've read, something in the 4700-6800K range is better for plants, though I have to admit to being a bit bewildered by all the lighting options. I might just put it in front of a South facing window, LOL.

[Judi]

I've heard good things about the Coralife NO T5 fixtures, but you don't want the one with an actinic bulb. You want this one

http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS/ct ... riplight30

(I'm sure it's available other places besides Big Al's; it's just the first place I thought of.)

[chris_todd]

I've heard good things about the Coralife NO T5 fixtures, but you don't want the one with an actinic bulb. You want this one

http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS/ct ... riplight30

(I'm sure it's available other places besides Big Al's; it's just the first place I thought of.)

Cool, thanks for the confirmation.

And I just realized that I am essentially setting up a Bullet Proof Aquarium, per this article:
http://gwapa.org/documents/The_Bullet_P ... uarium.pdf

I could have just RTFM, instead of bugging you all with my newbie questions! Feel free to tell me to go do some reading, folks, I like reading manuals!

I'll be sure to post a log and pictures of my progress, to see just how bullet proof this approach is.

[Ghazanfar Ghori]

That Bullet Proof aquarium article is a bit dated - but should work out ok.
If you're looking to do a biotope - I'd use the Sean/Aaron miricle mud substrate
instead of a commercial mix and plant it with mostly cryptocorynes, wendtii, ponterfolia, beckettii, xWillisii and add in some leaf litter for the foreground. Oak leaves work out just fine. It'll look hot and should be pretty low maint.

[chris_todd]

That Bullet Proof aquarium article is a bit dated - but should work out ok.
If you're looking to do a biotope - I'd use the Sean/Aaron miricle mud substrate
instead of a commercial mix and plant it with mostly cryptocorynes, wendtii, ponterfolia, beckettii, xWillisii and add in some leaf litter for the foreground. Oak leaves work out just fine. It'll look hot and should be pretty low maint.

I had read the mineralize soil substrate article, and I will eventually try that, but for now I think I'll use the KISS principle. Babysteps.

Thanks for the crypt suggestions, those all look nice.

EDIT:

... and plant it with mostly cryptocorynes, wendtii, ponterfolia, beckettii, xWillisii and add in some leaf litter for the foreground. Oak leaves work out just fine. It'll look hot and should be pretty low maint.

Ghazanfar, you mean something like this entry in the 2007 AGA aquascaping contest (biotope category):
http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2 ... =-1&id=164

I like that tank, it has a natural feel to it, and it definitely gives you the impression of a steamy slow moving stream. Bit overstocked with fish, though.